StatTrack
free web hosting | free website | Web Hosting | Free Website Submission | shopping cart | php hosting
Welcome to the F.A.Q. page for
Honda 750 S.O.H.C.


('SPECIALLY HELPFULL IF YOU ARE CHOPPIN ONE)
Questions and their answers gleaned from the members of the "Honda Chopper" website Q&A page
More to be added as they continue to be re-asked
Q.

can i use a newer solid state regulater/rectifier instead of the old unit?

A.
yes, afterarket models such as
Electrex  as well as the regulater/rectifier from the D.O.H.C. unit are used quite frequently. Click the links in this answer to view how to wire them into your S.O.H.C. motor.



Q.
I'm wiring the starter for my bike and I've been using the Santee wiring diagram, and my question is this: my ignition switch has a terminal marked " starter ", which wire do I run to this, the wire from the starter; the black wire running out of the solenoid; the red/yellow wire running out of the solenoid;or none of the above. Also, I checked out Lestat's wiring diagram and there is no solenoid pictured, what gives. Please help, I've gone thru all the wiring diagrams several times and I'm getting confused.

A.
there are a few of us running walmart style (a cheap one) univeral ignition switches and it has been tested thourouly.. If you use this type of switch you really DON'T need a solenoid. Run a heavy 10 awg wire from the battery positive side to the "battery" post on the universal ignition switch. Then you run a 10 awg wire from the "start" pole on the universal ignition switch directly to the starter... WORKS LIKE A CHARM.



Q.

How heavy a load should switches be able to handle when re-wireing my bike?

A.
   Ignnition switch  30A 
   lights 20A
   turns if equiped 15A
   horn  15A


Q.

I have seen the black stuff oozing out of my sohc coils and I just switched them out no biggy . But I dont know what causes this and does it mean your coils are bad automatically .

A.
basically that black goo is the insulation around the coils of wire inside the coil case. the coil may function for quite a while even in its disgusting state but it is on its way out.
grab a set somewhere while you have been warned that they are expireing, the problem is likely being caused by heat and or a bad ground or secondary wires.

Check for resistance (Ohms) on the secondary wires (Lil wires to the coil) I'm not aware what a 'good' reading should be, but you can find out by measuring Ohms on a piece of new wire of the same gauge and length... if the orignal wire has too much resistance the coil will run way hot and melt. Also, check your polarity, most coils will run backwards, but they drop in efficiency quite a bit and wear out VERY fast compared to a properly wired coil. Of equal concern is the primary wires (plug wires) although they generally will just make the bike run like crap when worn out. Also, check the manual cuz I think the Ohm ratings for both can be found in the book.



Q.
There are three yellow generator wires, does it matter what order they go in? i have them wired to a DOHC regulator and never marked the order of them


A.
Doesn't matter. Any order, as long as color goes to color



Q.
When I wire the F&R turn signal bulbs in should I wire them parallel or in series?


A.
I would wire front and back t/s in parallel that way if one burns out the rest still work.



Q.
what wires should i use to re-wire my bike


A.
used #14 and #16 for most of the wiring. I also used #10 from the battery to the soleniod.
Basically, things that don't draw a lot of current (taillight, turn lights, ect.)...small wire. Things that draw moderate current (headlights & ect.) ....#14 or #12 wire. Anything that draws heavy current (starter soleniod, ground wire, ect.)
#10 or larger.
This is just my standard. May not be what everyone else uses...just a guide line.



Q.
its rather hard to see in the diagrams, but when wiring the headlight should both the high and low beam be on when the high beam is on? or just one beam at a time?
for some reason i felt the need to ask even after doing it many times already as one at a time.



A.
on stock bikes they're wired so that only 1 element is on at a time, however  a common modification is to wire
them so that both elements are on when high beams are on, to provide some additional illumination. but when
doing this, it is also common to use a relay to carry the current as the stock switches may not be rated to carry the
current of both elements. or use some aftermarket switches rated for the load.




Q.
One coil has a yellow wire and one has a blue wire (comming from the points). What cyl. fires off which coil.


A.
blue is 1/4 and yellow is 2/3.




Q.
My spark plug wires are getting hard and brittle,Can I just go to an auto parts place and buy a few feet of spark plug wire? Is it all the same type or is there big differences? What do you recommend?


A.
Unless I'm mistaken, you can't just run new wires if you are using a stock coil setup. They are a single unit with the wires included. Aftermarket coils, however, the ones that have removable wires I believe can be replaced as you asked.
for the stock coils cut the old wires off about 1" from the body of the coil(s) and solder new ones on. Make sure you buy copper core wire, not that graphite shit...it doesn't solder well at all.



Q.

Which coil is for which two plugs?



A.
One coil has a yellow wire and one has a blue wire (comming from the points). What cyl. fires off which coil.
blue is 1/4 and yellow is 2/3.


Q.

When i step on the brake pedal, the brake lights don't go out when i release it, why?

A.
Take a look
here to learn how to fix a bad rear brake switch, simple, cheap and quick!
Just so you know, the bro's at www.hondachopper.com combined have hundreds of years experience with the sohc honda 750cc motorcycle. and include several custom shop owners and private customizers among their membership. A pretty cool place to hang out!
Q.
what year is my frame/motor?

A.
Check out Hondachoppers  timeline  (you will need the serial number off your motor or frame)


Q.

how are lowering blocks installed? I over-raked my frame and need to lower the tail by about 1 1/2".

A.

I have lowering blocks installed.  I've been told that short shocks (yes they are available) are the way to go as my setup will cause undue stress on the shocks.




Q.

does anyone know how to remove roller bearings that are 'pressed' onto the bottom of a stem

A.
what i do is use a long brass rod to tap it out from the other end...GENTLY!! unless you dont intend on re-useing it, then just whack away!



Q.

okay, i know enough to know that if you dont have enough trail you end up with no stability, and handlebars slapping tanks and evil shit like that, but.............

what happens if you have too much trail?

got a few ideas that would allow me to increase the trail without having a massive long front end......

and while i'm on the subject, what is a good rule of thumb as to how much trail you should aim for?

A.

3-6 inches of trail is optimal

Too little and the front end will be very light at high speeds-hence unstable.

Too much and it will be too heavy at low speeds-making driving in town very tough on the forearms-extremely stable at higher speeds though (riding without a hands on the highway isn't a problem).
take a look at this:
Rake and Trail calculator




Q.


for frame tubeing, what wall thickness is recomended?

A.
for backbone tubing your going to want something stronger than 1/16th like the stock one was made of. If you look at alot of the aftermarket frames the backbone and seat post tube (if it is a single seat post) are really thick wall.
I use 1/8th inch thick tubing for downtubes. 1 1/8th OD with a 1/8th tubing thickness. its heavier than the stock stuff.





Q.
Where I am butting two frame tubes together I have a smaller tube slid inside each section of the tubes I am joining for reinforcement. I know I should use plug welds to join that inner tube to the outer ones, what diameter hole would be appropriate for the plug welds? The tubes are 1/8" wall. Also, how many plug welds should I use on either side of the butt joint?

A.
I think .250" dia sounds like a good plan. You probably wouldn't want to go too large, because you'd be filling in a big hole, and at some point, the center of the hole would get to be difficult to fill in. Maybe 5/16" or so. By the time you've worked around the the 5/16" dia, the center would be filled. Its the fillet weld around the perimeter that's doing all the holding.



Q.
is there a difference in rear axle spacers?..,.. on say 76 and earlier and the 77-78 models?

A.
yes. the 77 and 78's had a sprocket side hub that was "longer" so the spacer was different. the spacers from a 77/78 are not the same as the earlier bikes. neither is the wheel.

On a side note if you use a 80's DOHC swing arm on your bike you can use the 77/78 wheel and spacers.





Q.
I am converting my 18" rear wheel to a 16 as I am sure most of you have done, My problem is that I assume that this will make my speedo read incorrectly

A.
Your speedo should be hooked up to the front tire,
If so, it won't change a thing




Q.

What do the numbers mean for the tire sizes?


A.
   tire size:   130/90/16

The first set of numbers(130), is your section width (overall tire width)

The second set of numbers(90),  is the aspect ratio. It's just a percentage of the tire's width, in this case 90%. 130 x .90 = 117, so the tire is 130mm wide and 117mm tall from the rim to the highest point of the tread

The third number(16), is the size (diameter) of the wheel the tire is made to fit


Q.
What size rim do I need to mount a 180 tire?

A.
This question comes up so often it ought to be posted on the top of the page....

3" rim - 130 (MT90), maybe a 140
3.5" rim - 150
4" rim - 160
4.5" rim - 170
5" rim - 180
5.5"-6" rim - 180-200
7"-8" rim - 230
9" rim - 250

These are maximum recommended tire sizes for a given rim width. Now before the arguments start, these recommendations come from the TIRE manufacturers, NOT motorcycle manufacturers.


Q.
How wide of a rear tire can be used on a stock rear frame?


A.
Rockhunter runs a 160/80-16 on his savior.  There is not a whole lot of space between tire and chain though.  If anyone runs anything wider on a stock rear frame please let me know.
Q.
What is the capacity for a stock oil tank?

A.
3 1/2 quarts



Q.
Why isnt there any oil in the oil pan on the bottom of the motor? is there something wrong?

A.
The honda sohc motor uses a "dry sump" type oil pump. all the oil is normally in the oil tank on the right side of the frame, and a "scavenger pump" picks up and returns any oil that gets by to the pan to the tank. so an empty oil pan, or very little oil in the pan is actually good.





Q.
How important is the small spring found inside of the oil filter housing? After changing the oil in the second bike I realized that my other bike doesn't have one!!!Should I worry? Been running w/o one since last summer.

Oil gets pumped thru the bolt/tube and the spring between the housing and the filter makes the oil go thru the filter before draining down to the sump and back to the tank. No spring, no filtering! Also, since you didn't mention it there is also two thin washers which go on either end of the spring on the  filter bolt as well to keep the spring from "walking" into the filter or binding on the cap/bolt dureing assembly.
Q.
My rear brake got real hard to push down. When I stopped and pressed it a few times if went back to normal. But now it seems to be hard again, will only go down an inch or so. It doesn't seem like that would be a sign of just needing new shoes, or does it?

A.
I would think that you have something broke inside the drum. Could be a shoe "un-bonded" itself and is moving around. You want to look at it soon before you score things up and have to get a new drum/hub. Might be too late already depending on how far you rode it.



Q.

How do I adjust the Cam Chain?

A.

1. Remove the valve adjuster caps from No. 1 (left outside) cylinder, and all four spark plugs.

2. Turn the crankshaft in the normal direction (clockwise) until the "T" mark for the 1-4 cylinders align with the timing index mark.

3. Check that there is clearance at both valves for the #1 cylinder.  If not rotate the crankshaft another complete turn (360 degrees) and check again.  To be effective the adjustment must be performed when #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke.

4. When both valves are free, continue turning the crankshaft clockwise until the spring peg on the spark advancer is to the right of a line drawn from the index.  At this position the #1 and #4 cylinders will be at 15 degrees ATDC, and the adjustment can be performed.
Caution: Do not rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise (opposite direction of normal rotation) if you have turned it too far and gone past the timing mark.  Instead, rotate it clockwise through two complete turns so that #1 piston will again be on the compression stroke and you can position the spring peg just to the right of the timing mark without having to turn the crankshaft back.  Otherwise, the chain slack will not be positioned properly and the tensioner may not be able to take up the full amount of slack.

5. Loosen the locknut and back out the adjuster bolt until you can turn it with your fingers.  At this point, the adjuster bolt has released pressure on the tensioner rod, which has automatically moved in to take up the slack.  Tighten the adjuster bolt to 5.9-7.2 ft lbs, then lock it in position with the locknut.




Q.
what is the diameter of a stock honda rear axle?

A.
20 mm



Q.

What is a good sprocket ratio for my 750?

A.
Depends on how you want it to perform, take a look at: 
Sprocket Ratios




Q.

What size Chain do I need?
69-76 K series 530 chain
75-78 F and 77-78 K series 630 chain


A.
Still not sure what size chain you have?  Look on the side of the link; it should be stamped there.  And last but not least, if all else fails measure, 530 chains 5/8” spacing, 630 chains ¾” spacing.
530 chains are cheaper and easier to find and will work with the appropriate sprockets which can be found here: 
http://sprocketspecialists.com/html/main.shtml



Q.

Is creaming your tank a good idea???

A.
some people don't ever cream there tanks and have no problems, others would never use even a
new tank without giveing it a sealer first. With older tanks which may have rust in them it is a good idea to keep rust from going completely through your tank side and ruining it.
I have used Por 15 on auto tanks and motorcycles. If you follow the instructions it is better than a new tank. It even fills pin hole leaks. It is about $30 bucks but you have a tank better than new. I have used a lot of their stuff and it all is very good.




Q.
when im sitting still and i shift into 1st gear the engine lurches a little harder than i would expect it to......is this the clutch being out of adjustment or what? idle seems good.


A.
I  would probly adjust your clutch and see if that fixes it
Check your clutch drum. mine does that and is hard to find neutral. The clutch plates have worn little indents in the drum and its causing a few plates to hang up and drag. i filed em down and it worked ok for a while but this winter I'm gonna have to have the slots in the drum machined flat again.





Q.
ok question#1 i want to put a 836 kit on, will i have to do work on the head.
#2 if so what type of work.


A.
All you need to do is disassemble, bore the cylinder and reassemble.... that simple...
Although.. while it is apart it would be a good idea to have a thorough valve job done. Not only to save disassembling and reassembling twice.. but to gain all of the performance you should from the 836 kit.If you decide to do this you can get you the Wiseco 836 kit for the K model motors for $350.. from
www.lowridersbysummers.com/





Q.
What do you guys do about removing the stock rusty, stripped, crusty, crappy, soft metal phillips head screws from the engine. I plan on replacing them with allen screws, but cant get the old ones out?


A.
I used an impact screwdriver....costs about $20 and you use a hammer for the impact...worked great even on all of the BADLY stripped out ones.





Q.
does anyone know how to remove roller bearings that are 'pressed' onto the bottom of a stem


A.
what i do is use a long brass rod to tap it out from the other end...GENTLY!! unless you dont intend on re-useing it, then just whack away!





Q.
I have 4 into 2 pipes on my chop with no baffles. They definitely are loud but am I doing my bike wrong by not providing some back pressure. Is there any sound benefits to putting the pipes 1-3 and 2-4. I want the bike to be comfortable and reliable with an attitude. I have just put on a chrome air box instead of individual filters and it makes one hell of a difference. Sewed up a filter band from one of my black t-shirts and it muffles the air just right. I am running 140 main jets on a 42A carb set


A.
There's no such thing as "good" backpressure. With 4-2s you've got an advantage over 4-4 drags, but those still won't provide the more ideal scavenging that a 4-1 system would. The crossover 4-2 system (#'s 1&3 and 2&4 grouped) corrects the pulse sequence, but probably not in a way that would make a noticable difference in performance. You're not hurting anything by running the system you've got right now, even without baffles. 140 jets might be too rich for a stock cam and ignition setup, but if it's working for you stay with it.




Q.

when i was putting the engine back in the frame i did it by myself so with all the oil drained out of the engine, i layed the engine on its side and mounted the frame around it. It was only on its side for 20 minutes. Does this cause any harm.


A.
Only if your riding it at the time!!!

a motor can be laid upside down without harming anything except running the oil out of it.





Q.

My Amen frame has the uncaged tiny ball bearings for the trees. Is there any way to convert them to the better caged type?


A.
tapered roller bearings can be placed in the neck and are a great advantage over the loose bearing set up, No bearing maker that I know of will have bearings that convert US sizes to metric. That is a 1" stem to a metric sized neck. The correct fix would be to either make the stem match the neck ... or the neck match the stem.
again check with:
www.lowridersbysummers.com/





Q.

I have my frame all primered and i placed my motor in to fit everything before final paint. i had three guys (including myself) help with this and we where carefull as hell (or atleast i thought we were) yet we still managed to scrape the shit out of the frame in some spots. now i have heard of people using inner tube tires on the frame to keep it from getting scratched but what have you guys done to keep your frame clean of scratches when installing the motor on the final paint job.


A.
buy the pipe insulation that you use to put around your copper plumbing pipes...holds good,,maybe a lil tape around it...but works well
1. You take your motor and lay it on carpet scraps on its RHS (from the sitting position on the bike) and block it square and level.

2. then strip your frame of the front end and back wheel.

3.run lawn timbers or 4x4's in front and behind motor perpendicular to the motor.

4. turn your frame on its side one person in front one in the rear and lift the frame over the motor line it up and fit it down over the motor. then from the top drop through the motor mount bolts in all three positions. shim as needed.

5. make sure you have enough lawn timber or 4x4 on the bottom rail side and then rock your frame back vertical, install your nuts and reassemble your frames front end and rear tire and presto its together.

Do not use electrical or duct tape! I tried it and it pulled the new paint off.






Q.
I managed to scrrew up the threads for the spark plug, can they be fixed without tearing the head off?
Anybody ever done this? what size tap and insert? anything else I should know before attempting?


A.
You will get a lot of answers, but here are the two which keep comeing up the most;

#1
heli coils® are easy and if you buy the kit for the appropriate thread........ ie........ same as your spark plug......... it will have everything you need except the drill motor and the grease to keep the chips from the inside of your engine

#2
if its not bad you can make a thread chaser out of an old spark plug (you need the head off to do this any ways) grab a die grinder and put four or five vertical cuts into the old plug across the threads and slowly thread it in. when it starts getting snug back it off 1/2 turn and continue.use lots of cutting oil.





Q.
my fork seals started leaking badly. the oil (ATF) got soaked into my pads. not very good for stopping anmore. i'm prety sure theyre trashed, but is there any way to get the oil out so that they will work right again, or should i just spend the cash on new ones?


A.
For the price of new pads, get em. Make sure your seals are repaired though, otherwise your just throwin away your hard earned cash.
also if you want to save the pads use regular brake cleaner available at the local auto supply, made for cleaning brake surfaces.
in a pinch carb cleaner does a decent job too, any kind of heavy alcohol based cleaner that doesnt leave a residue.
and don't forget to clean the rotor also, or the oil film will be right back on the pads.





Q.
Ive got a 78f2 motor and a set of early model (k2 I think) has anyone tried the swap? any benefits


A.
yup, swap will work-as long a syou have the rubbers for the earlier carbs. The inlet on the engine is the same size no matter what year (69-78), but the carb sides are bigger on the later carbs, so you need the k rubbers.

Don't really know about performance differences (as I have never driven a 78f) but it is much easier to find rebuild kits for the early carbs.





Q.

I have some scratches in my wind shield. Is there anything out there to polish them out or reduce them?


A.
#1
great polish for plastic windscreens is already in your bathroom...tooth polish...works great!

#2
Novus (out of Mpls, MN 1-800-548-6872) makes #2 Fine Scratch Remover, list of uses includes motorcycle windshields. There's a #3 Heavy Scratch Remover, but you have to be more careful what you use it on.

#3
Meguiar's (out of Irvine, CA
www.meguiars.com ) makes "Mirror Glaze" We have #17 Clear Plastic Cleaner, list of uses includes Motorcycle windshields(for fine hairline scratches)... It was TEN bucks for 8 oz.!






Q.
how do you measure a cams lift/duration?
Lobe lift: Measure the base circle and then the lobe height and take the difference.


A.
Valve lift: The lobe lift times the rocker arm ratio.
Duration: Measured with a degree wheel and indicator. Usually in the motor but can be done separately.






A.
how can i make a seat pan for my bike?


A.
just use the fiberglass matt and resin that you can get at an auto parts store. i covered my frame with saran wrap and laid the glass on there trimmed close to the size i needed. layer it up til its strong. then, when its all hardened, trim to the exact shape you need. simple as that.
for full instructions see:
Seat pan





A.

How do you jet carbs, where do you get bigger jets?


A.
you can buy individual size jets from cycle recycle. or you can buy complete rebuild kits from
lowridersbysummers.com or partsnmore.

Rejeting can be done a couple of ways. There is using bigger or smaller main jets. This will depend on what kind of pipes and pods you are running. On the main jets (the ones that screw in with a nut looking thing on the end there are numbers like.125 or .130 you can get bigger ones if say you have .105 and are running pods and stright pipes you can go up to .125. You can also drill the jets out. I DO NOT reamend this unless you know what you are doing. Also for carbs that are 69-76 you can reset the needles by moving the clip on them. You have to take the carbs apart and remove the needle and you will find five notchs in the needle with a little c type clip. You can move it up or down. You might want to get a good manual and check all this out just to be sure. The smaller jets are the ones with the slit on top like you might put a screwdriver in. On 69-76 these are removable. They screw out. Most of the time you can leave these other then clean them. I think these are .40 most of the time. Now as far as I know these are not ajustable. Now in the 77-79 the large jets are longer and the low jets are not met to be removed also you have to shim the needles because they don't have the notchs to work with.



Q.
How big/heavy is the 750 motor?  I need to get one shipped.

A.
Approximate weight 225 pounds
Approximate dimensions 24”x24”x24”



Q.
How much fork oil is needed in the 750 forks?


A.
Use 7 to 7.3 ounces of fork oil in each fork


Q.

How do you get this d#*ned motor out of the frame?

A.
Normally, the easiest way is to lay the bike on its side, unbolt the engine, and lift the frame from the engine.  Make certain you remove the carburetors and disconnect all the wiring before doing this.  The engine comes out on the right side (as you are sitting on it).  It is best if you do all the unbolting before you lay it over and it helps if you have the frame stripped down as much as possible.  By putting something like a 2X4 under the motor about where the kick-starter is to even out how the motor lays on the ground it tends to make things easier.  Get a friend if possible to assist.  If you are pulling the motor out of a stock frame and do not plan to use the frame again here is a simple way to get the motor out. Take a torch and cut the frame up until there is nothing left but the motor sitting on the ground (try to save the neck for future use).  Or just used a plain old hacksaw.  Remember though, -if you want to keep your frame looking nice after engine removal/installation, zip-tie some old tire inner tubes round your frame tubes to protect them. or better yet some of the foam pipe insulation from the local hardware or home center.


Q.

Is ther some way to get a dent out of a tank besides fill it with putty?

A.
Some bike shops have ways to blow air into the tank, pressurizing it and popping the dent out.  But most weld a brad to the center of the dent and pull it out with a slide hammer.  Or this can be done in the home garage by welding a nail to the center of the dent, securing the tank either in a vice or on the frame, and using pliers to pull out the dent.  Then bondo should be applied to smooth it out.

Another technique involves freezing water in the tank to pop out the dent.  Close the petcock valve at the bottom, fill the tank with water all the way to the top, replace the cap, and place the tank in the freezer.  Allow the water in the tank to fully freeze.  Usually takes a good 24 to 48 hours.  The water will expand a small amount as it freezes causing the dent to be pushed out and hopefully removed.  After freezing, remove the tank.  If you need more dent removal allow water to thaw and repeat.   This process is really easy and only takes some time.

Other members have had good luck "picking" the dent out from the inside of the tank with a pick tool.  You can make this tool out of 3/8 rod. Don't worry about securing the tank enough to pick or pull it too.  Secure the pick, or the welded stud, whichever method you choose in a bench vise and push or pull on the tank.


Q.
Will one of the dohc 750s motors fit in the 750 sohc frame?

A.
NO   Same pattern... different spacing... A DOHC engine will not work in a stock SOHC frame... It will bolt up and different spacers made... but the front sprocket will be lined up with the left seat down-tube... may be OK in an aftermarket or custom frame with a single seat down-tube....
Q.
are there special tools that will make working on a cb750 easier?


A.
quite a few actually, a REALLY well equiped shop would have:

(this list compiled by Andy P from hondachopper site)

07900-3000000 special tool set for CB-750
1. 07980-3000100 inlet/exhaust valve seat cutter 90 deg.
2. 07980-5680400 inlet valve seat top cutter
3. 07980-5510400 exhaust valve seat top cutter
4. 07980-5510500 inlet valve seat interior cutter
5. 07980-5510500 exhaust valve seat interior cutter
6. 07981-5510000 valve seat cutter holder
7. 07984-6110000 valve guide reamer
8. 07957-3290000 valve spring compressor
9. 07942-3000000 valveguide driving & removing tool
10. 07908-3230000 valve tappet lock nut wrench
11. 07942-3000200 valve guide driver
12. 07906-3230000 heat bolt 12mm wrench
13. 07954-3000000 piston ring compressor (2 pcs)
14. 07958-3000000 piston base (2pcs)
15. 07933-3000000 AC generator rotor puller
16. 07909-3000000 spark plug wrench
17. 07922-3000000 drive sprocket holder
18. 07916-2830000 clutch lock nut wrench
19. 07945-3000400 counter shaft bearing removal tool
20. 07945-3000500 counter shaft bearing removal tool
21. 07915-2160000 stem nut box wrench
22. 07902-2000000 steering stem top tread wrench
23. 07967-3000000 front fork assembling bar
24. 07959-3290000 rear cushion disassembling &
assembling tool
25. 07914-3230000 master cylinder circlip pliers
26. 07917-3000000 hollow set wrench
27. 07949-3000000 bearing driver handle
28. 07946-3000100 front wheel bearing driver
29. 07946-3000200 pear wheel bearing driver
30. 07945-3000000 final drive shaft bearing driver
31. 07401-0010000 carburator float level guage
32. 07999-3000000 crankshaft turning handle
33. 07910-3230101 retainer wrench
34. 07910-2830000 retaioner wrench
35. 07947-3290000 oil seal guide

GAUGES AND ATTACHMENT

1. 07506-3000000 oil pressure gauge (10 kg)
2. 07510-3000000 oil pressure gauge adapter
3. 07510-3000100 vacume gauge attachment (A) (2pcs)
4. 07510-3000200 vacume gauge attachment (B) (2pcs)
5. 07504-3000100 vacume gauge set (4pcs)
6. 07504-3000200 vacume gauge (1pcs)
7. 07975-3000001 joint tool set

But the two most needed tools needed when working on these old machines are:
1-Impact Driver-the kind that you hit with a hammer-next to the manual purchase this will be the best $10-20 purchase that you will make.
2-PB Blaster or other good penetrant

and of course LOTS of elbow grease and mostly patience...
Links to parts and more advice
Visit the source for everything cb750
F.A.Q. on the Hondachopper.com site